Emptying a Pool is Risky Business

There are all sorts of articles around the web assuring readers that an in-ground swimming pool can be drained easily and inexpensively by the homeowner. Yet the truth is taking on a task like this is a little like doing stunts with a shark; the variables are far too unpredictable to be 100% sure that the shark (or pool) won't turn on you. It is possible to do the job without the assistance of a professional, and many people do it on a regular basis. However, it is not as simple as hooking up a sump pump and waiting.

First of all, consider whether the pool really needs to be emptied. Swimming pools do not necessarily need to be emptied annually or even every second year. Most reputable pool contractors will tell you there are only two reasons for a pool to be emptied. The first is in the case of a salt water pool. When the salt content in the water is no longer producing proper amounts of chlorine levels that are desired, people like to think pouring in another bag of salt will solve the problem. Answer, no it won't...unless it needs it; then do it. But chlorine imbalance is usually because of another underlying issue that will now continue to occur, despite the continued addition of salt. Salt never evaporates; it never goes away unless the pool water is replaced. Newbie salt water pool owners are the culprits most of the time, but everyone can make this mistake. So as the newbie pool owner keeps adding salt to bring the chlorine levels up, the water gets saltier and saltier until every swimmer comes out as a shriveled up raisin. Then the water MUST be drained to bring the salt levels down to a normal level (2700-3400ppm).

The second scenario for legitimately needing to drain a pool is when the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) reading is too high. During the summer season foreign bodies build up in the water, such as lotions, sunscreen, perfume, perspiration and perhaps even (gulp) urine. A pool that gets a lot of use will experience an even greater level of Total Dissolved Solids, and when the ratio of actual water to TDS becomes so low that all is left is TDS, well then it is probably time to empty the pool. Normal TDS levels not to exceed 1500ppm. Understand that water evaporates, but only pure water. The toxins never leave the pool, unless it is emptied.

Now, if you are still convinced that the water must be replaced, then begin with some research. Read about methods of cleaning and care for your particular type of in-ground pool. Look into the local bylaws regarding disposal of pool water, and refilling. Using the fire hydrant out front to refill the pool may seem like a great idea, until the fire department comes knocking. Plus, some communities get a little upset when residents decide to run their old pool water to the storm drain on the street. Make sure you know the right and wrong ways to get rid of the water.

Another important subject to study is the occurrence of a high water table in your area. If your neighborhood is prone to a higher water table content, then you should not be removing the water from your pool at all. If you remove the water (and with it tens of thousands of pounds in weight), the ground water will push the pool shell up and cause it to become dislodged. That, of course, will result in major damage and possibly replacement of the pool. The same scenario can occur after a wet spring or heavy rain. The surrounding wet soil will gradually squeeze and push the pool up and out of place as it empties.

One tiny little detail that is very often overlooked by homeowners emptying their pool, especially in preparation for winter, is the water in all the working parts associated with the pool. If the intention is to prepare the pool for disuse during the cold months, then all water should be emptied out of the pool pump. Drain the filter tank by opening the air bleeder valve on the filter. Once all the water has moved to the lowest point in the pump, remove the drain plug to allow the water out. Ensuring all the water is out of the pump and pipes is very important in climates where frost and freezing temperatures are common in winter. The pool suction and return lines are typically PVC and are very prone to breakage if exposed to water and freezing temperatures.

From the time we are children it is ingrained in our heads, water and electricity do not mix. Yet when it comes to a swimming pool or hot tub, the two go hand in hand. We jump right into that hot tub and crank up the jets, knowing it is all powered by electricity. When it comes to emptying a pool, the same attitude cannot be present. Most procedures for removing the water from a swimming pool involve at least one sump pump. For obvious reasons, it is vitally important the sump pump is fully immersible and hooked up to a power source far away from the body of water. Do not enter the pool while the sump pump is working. Exercise extreme caution. Emptying a pool is a risky business, if it needs to be done at all.